Paris: Tranoï Homme
As far as tradeshows in Paris go, Tranoï is the place to go to get to know, up-close-and-personal, a well-edited selection of designers from around the world. This season, Tranoï homme also presented some fresh faces, all of which are trying to make their mark on the world of fashion in 2012.
The intimate Tranoï salon started with the Hadida family, one of the pillars of Paris fashion, about 8 years ago. I sat down with Armand Hadida, who has an integral role in hand-selecting designers to present at the tradeshow, as well as running, along with his siblings, the family’s successful line of stores in Paris, L’Eclaireur.
Armand credits his passion for his work to a deeper obsession with outdoing himself, in terms of success, year after year. “I am perturbed with the obligation to always do better,” confided Armand Hadida.
He is a strong believer that fashion is about much more than clothes, and this conviction shows in Tranoï’s presentation of high quality products, rather than simply nice looking collections.
Being very closely tied to Tranoï, both from a buyer’s and an owner’s perspective, Armand Hadida has a strong connection to the designers who exhibit at the tradeshow. In fact, the word Tranoï, in Italian, means “between us,” which perfectly describes “the clan” that is the Tranoï family of designers and proprietors.
A common thread found between each designer was their passion for the story of their brand and the products they produced. I didn’t meet a single designer who blandly said “oh you know, just everything inspires me…” Instead, each designer had a history, a brand story, a personal connection to their collection that showed in both the fervor with which they spoke and the quality with which they created their designs.
Here are the top 3 designers who peaked my interest for their brands’ stories, quality products, and of course, charm.
Jas Sehmbi is a rare breed in the fashion industry. His warm spirit and enthusiasm are just the beginning, but the real showstoppers are his incredible, supple, leather bags. While presented during menswear, they are truly unisex. Coming from London, Jas M.B. is a true testament to British styling. Drawing on classic British history and culture for inspiration, Jas M.B. mixes modern elements with classics, like printing Tartan plaid on pony hair, and turning it into a chic rucksack. His collection has drawn international appeal, and landed him a long-lasting collaboration with Japanese designer Mihara Yasuhiro. He has also launched a new line, “RD,” which stands for Recession Driven, with tailored bags at a fraction of the price. You can find his bags, big and small, in the US at Barneys or in the UK at Selfridge’s.
This brand, hailing from Amsterdam, presented both men’s and womenswear at Tranoï, and I can’t decide which I loved more. The designer got his training working with Viktor & Rolf and it shows. The aim of the brand is to create limited edition pieces, accessible luxury, without making them exclusive. The color palette was soft but edgy, using mostly black and dark charcoals, while throwing in ensembles of color such as, deep porcelain blue for men, and rich mauve for women. The Avelon collection was full of details, such as their signature blue zipper tape, which exuded easy sophistication.
To call Mad et Len perfume makers is an understatement. This family-run business creates some of the finest scents in the world, coming from all natural ingredients, and pure essential oils direct from their sources. The conviction with which the artisans uphold the pure art of their craft shows in the quality of their product, like in the time of ancient apothecaries. Each candle produced and scent mixed is unique and made in limited quality. One scent to look out for is their Patchouli Rose perfume, with pure, aged patchouli oil from Haiti and rose from Damascus. To seal the deal, the initials of the craftsman who made each candle or perfume bottle is hand-printed on the label.

















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