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I like to think I can depend on Proenza Schouler for a seasonal offering that smacks. True to form, the Pre-fall 2012 collection was rife with painstakingly original details via the standard nonchalant deliverance typical of design duo Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough. And for that next little transitional period that occurs somewhere between September and Halloween, they’re seeing extreme sports.
Flashes of nylon on skin-tight button-up shirts and skirts distantly reference camping tents while toggles and bungee cords acknowledge something a little more airborne. Though essentially sportive, the collection is laced with sharp contemporary pieces, which basically epitomize my gentlewoman wet dream; clean, razor-sharp lines, considered layering and uber intelligent colour usage. Proenza rule at combining refined, two-tone shades with brash poster colour. In this instance, we’re talking cyan blue and pillar-box red.
Key pieces include tweed skirt suits working a bomber silhouette and a shirt dress featuring symmetrical colour panels that wouldn’t look out of place on the back of your average fitness freak. Knitwear championed the drop shoulder.
Perhaps the crowning glory for a house so revered for its next level prints, images taken from Google earth mountainscapes were rehashed onto taffeta for A-line dresses and skirts in dark sapphire and deep emerald. From squinting distance, the cratered lines of the terrain resemble a crushed velvet effect, delivering fresh context to a nineties great: SMACK.
By Jodie Kharas