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Thom Browne always delights the senses with every show and it is always one of our favorites. This season it was a mad cap twenties cocktail party held in the Beaux Arts Edna Barnes Salomon Room albeit with a mermaid as the guest of honor.
There was a victrola spinning Cole Porter tunes and deco furniture and rugs from and two bars chocked full of crystal all imported from two of our favorite haunts, High Deco Style and ABC Carpets. It was hard to keep many of us from raiding the gin bottle.
As the room filled with models in nautical numbers dropping in to say hello to the hostess in a Gaga-esque exaggerated shoulder padded blazer, the silhouettes became more daring. One model sported a navy numbed that ended at her knees with no armholes in sight, another with sleeves down to the floor ending in lobster claws. But this is what we love about Thom. Chanel did it, Courrege did it and McQueen did it. They all dropped, raised or tweeked the look of the women of their time so why not now? We especially loved the beaded fringe and the rubber duck patterns. We spoke to Browne after the show and he said he was thinking of the 1920’s film noir with this collection and using more surreal proportions. Tadashi Harada from Shiseido told us that he followed Thom’s guidelines for silent movie vixens and used black, white and red makeup and kept the hair very simple, clean and compact in keeping with the theme.
We also had a moment with the model in the armless blazer, Anniek Korltleve. How is it in there? Well it is a little warm but I love the outfit. I’m especially fond of the rubber duck necklace, I just wish they squeaked.” How long have you been modeling? “This is my first season! I really like meeting all the different people at every show but I don’t like New York very much.” Oh no! Why? “It’s just too busy and I miss riding my bike around Amsterdam. It’s better than riding with all of these scary people in the subway!” We concur.
Anytime Thom has a party we sure hope we are invited because as Cole Porter sang, “Anything goes!”
All photos courtesy of Catharina Duval de Navarre