Interview: Photographer Ondrea Barbe on Capturing the Personality Within

Having mastered the art of expressing emotions visually, Ondrea Barbe has become a go-to name in the field of beauty photography.  Influenced by her Northern California upbringing and a seven-year stint in France, her work is deeply influenced by nature, natural light, and human emotion.  She has developed campaigns for some of the biggest commercial beauty brands in the industry ranging from Clinique and L’Oreal to Bobbi Brown and Target.  Barbe now lives in New York City with her son and has expanded the breadth of her photography into motion.  We chatted about her influences and inspirations, how she learned creative lighting techniques through pure experimentation, and her ever-present, emotional connection to her craft.

How would you describe your photography style?

It is hard for me to describe my own style because it is such a part of me.  Love and emotion are strong words that come to mind.  Overall, style is something you can feel through the photo, something that is real, honest, genuine.  It is innate; what makes you you. 

Your portfolio is strongly feminine.  Do you prefer shooting women?

Shooting women is an extension of what I feel and how I perceive things.  To shoot women and beauty makes sense to me because I use, wear, and feel the products we’re promoting — and that feeling is very real.  As a woman, I know what it is like to feel sexy and happy, and as a photographer I know how to capture the glow brands want to exude.

“Ondrea? Enthusiastic. Kind. Generous. Absolutely focused on the craft of lighting, so that whomever she shoots is even more beautiful. She lights for the spirit of the person... their beautiful energy is revealed through her lens.”  –Jana Jarosz, VP Associate Creative Director; Publicis USA 

 “Ondrea has the unique ability to create a bond with the talent that helps bring out their personality. There is laughter, passion, and sometimes even screaming on set – and in the end you get an image that captures real genuine emotion. Perfect!”  –Silke Vishab, Art Director; Estee Lauder, Beauty Bank  

Does shooting in that specific category ever feel repetitive or restricted?

Never. Every woman is different; every subject is different.  As beauty photographers, we may have shot the same women in a similar light, but the images are all unique.  Even if every photographer took different pictures with similar lighting and the same background, they would still all come out very differently.

How do you create that environment to capture the perfect shot?

In regards to the subject I am shooting, I am there for them, to capture their energy and to learn from them, so there is no reason not to have fun together. From the get go, there’s no other way it can be.  It is about all this invisible stuff that you can’t define.  That being said, when I’m shooting or simply finessing a light, I know how uncomfortable it can get.  You have to be able to let everything down in yourself, not impose anything, and create an environment in which the subject can let go. I definitely have to create the foundation and the atmosphere, but the rest is all inside them.

“It is a complete creative collaboration when working with Ondrea. Her upbeat energy and automatic ease and connection with the models elicits amazing ‘in the moment’ photos.  She is a delight to work with.”  –Jesse Tobin, Art Director; Laird & Partners

“Ondrea has an infectious personality that immediately lights up the room. She has the ability to put models, crew and clients at ease and makes even the most difficult shot seem effortless. I always look forward to working with Ondrea because I know the shoot will go smoothly, the day will be fun and the results fabulous!”  –Janine Aloia, Art Buyer; Estee Lauder, Beauty Bank 

Can you describe your level of emotion for the art?

It is my passion—I love the smell of film, the feel of a negative. Old cameras are so comfortable to me, like your grandmother’s rocking chair.  I love the event of taking a picture, capturing a moment.  A photograph will always be there, it will not move, my eyes will always see it, and it will always be something I can touch and revisit. 

How influential is music when you are shooting?

Music is a huge influence, and a big part of my shoots have to do with my music mixes. That’s the first way that I set the tone.  I listen to and incorporate all kinds of music, certain songs that are really powerful and visceral work better for photo sets.  My goal is to create an atmosphere that is fun and has high energy, and good music is the quickest and easiest way to do that. Many clients have asked me about my mixes, so they must be working!

Where do you find your inspiration?

Anywhere and everywhere!  I find enormous inspiration from the beauty that is nature – I adore the flowers, the colors, the seasons, the smell in the air. I love the odd and the offbeat. Recently I’ve been really into the artist Patrick Dougherty; he does stickwork. His stick sculptures represent movement and emotion. They capture a fluidity of nature, like a dance.  They are just sticks, but they take on a new meaning being constructed in a different way. I find my photographic inspiration comes from art of all mediums, and that includes the earth itself.

"If you want an image that captures truly genuine emotion, hire Ondrea immediately. Her ability to form an immediate bond with not only the models but her clients and everyone on set creates the ideal environment for creative magic to happen. " –Merrilee Hesterfer-Diaz, Director & Art Producer; Clinique Creative

“Ondrea is the first photographer I have worked with who not only understood the story we were trying to tell with photography but helped us evolve and embellish it. From our initial meeting to the casting to the set to the direction she gave the talent at the shoot. She not only captured what we had in mind but added another level of ideas that were exactly on target with our vision. The shoot itself was an evolution rather than a means to an end. As she had a new idea she captured it and her energy and excitement was infectious.”  –Melissa Knapp, Creative Director; Origins & Ojon, Estee Lauder 

Do you get to be creative in other parts of your life?

Absolutely.  I have all kinds of creative outlets – playing with my son, playing instruments, hula hooping, juggling.  I’m currently learning to make balloon creatures for a new project. 

How did you develop your technical skills with lighting?

I didn’t go to school and I didn’t assist.  When I was in France I played with lighting but it wasn’t something that I knew instinctively, so I wasn’t there yet. It was all experimentation at first. I was always shooting on location, little bounces of this, rivets of that, and silhouettes of this.  Eventually I got sick of always having to explain to someone when I wanted a certain feeling, and so I asked as many questions as I could to learn the technical answers.  

“Ondrea is one of the most talented photographers with whom I've ever had the pleasure of working.  Not only does she have a truly amazing eye, she's also super-fun, spunky and a blast to be with on set. She's not merely an executor; she's an innovator and someone who likes to take our ideas to the next level both conceptually and aesthetically.  I always love when she captures a moment in her film, which is completely unexpected/brilliant and gets really excited.  Her laugh is infectious. Her passion for her work is palpable.”  –Kira Shalom, Senior Art Director; Publicis USA

“Ondrea Barbe is one of my most favorite photographers to work with.  Ondrea impressed me from the very first pre-pro meeting with her.  She takes the time to fully understand a client's brand and the agency's creative vision.  Ondrea is able to articulate her own vision and reassure clients that she is in sync with their needs. On set Ondrea is open, friendly and soothing... the words ‘pressure’ or ‘stress’ do not exist.  Ondrea creates a comfortable atmosphere that makes both talent and clients feel so relaxed.  The result: she captures amazing imagery.”  –Jennifer Tyler, VP Senior Art Producer; Publicis USA

Do you have a rigorous preparation process to get the right shot?

I’m not necessarily regimented, and I will do things that are “not right” if I think it will result in the effect I want; I’m not afraid. You won’t find me saying, “conditions aren’t perfect right now, so I’m not going to take a picture.”  The conditions are whatever it is that is blooming between two people or what is about to happen. You have to be able to forget about all the technical stuff and pay attention to the environment. 

Do you encourage others to ask you questions?

Without a doubt – it is the best way to learn. I do whatever I can to help young people emote or use the camera as a tool to do what they want to do.  I’m on the education committee at the ICP, and I am very active with that. I often encourage aspiring artists to come on shoots.

Looking back on how you learned and grew as a photographer, what advice do you have for aspiring artists?

My advice is to work hard. Work really, really hard.  All the fame mongering in pop culture today is scary – it’s all backwards these days. You used to work hard and perfect your craft and perhaps gain some fame if you became the very best at what you do. Now, people are trying to become famous and get somewhere, but without even having a craft. 

Aspiring artists should always be open to letting their passion take them where they want to go.  Don’t get discouraged and just keep doing what you are doing.  If people aren’t responding, ask yourself if you’re showing what you want to show. Eventually, you will get it.  When you find yourself approaching one of those times you’re about to break, you just have to force yourself back into that rush again – keep psyching yourself up.  Also, never stop asking questions to everybody and anybody.  There’s always something new to learn.

“Ondrea has this lightness to her that is hard to describe. Her photos are happy and beautiful, and skin always looks perfect. The lighting is always right. And beyond her work, Ondrea as a person is an incredible woman. She makes everyone she works with and photographs look and feel amazing.”  –Bobbi Brown (from previous interview)

"Ondrea is supremely talented, a tireless perfectionist and the perfect partner in creating beautiful images for our clients. She is simply a joy to work with."  –Josie Ohana, Executive Creative Director; Publicis

For more on Ondrea Barbe and her work, visit OndreaBarbe.com.

For booking, see Monaco Reps.