Paris Fashion Week: Damir Doma Walks on Sunshine

Damir Doma is a name familiar to anyone following the menswear beat--his cult fanbase is well aware that his collections are some of the most anticipated presentations on the Paris Fashion Week schedule. Croatian-born, German-schooled, and Belgian-trained (under the swift guidance of Ann Demeulemeester and Raf Simons), Doma first translated his dark, heavily layered vision to womenswear last season; for Spring 2011, the Damir Doma woman is "emerging as her own being," with softer, even sexier interpretations of his highly intellectual aesthetic.

Only Doma could make the classic long and lean silhouette sound so poetic; his press release states that "silks stream down collars or fall as soft wings behind column dresses, as jackets bloom with cut-out volumes...Mesh slides over bare skin, joining an interplay of opaque and transparent tissues. Rare elements of deconstruction subvert the polished aura as linings appear beneath a sculpted cuff or knitwear slashed across the torso." Indeed, his collection was just as heavenly--relaxed and soft-spoken with the occasional touch of vibrant color.

Doma has, literally and figuratively, seen the light with bright marigolds and saffrons that recalled the spirituality of monk's robes--or perhaps, more simply, the sun, particularly when paired with smoky, very orange racoon eyes. His signature draped jackets in both wool and leather were given soft bounce with fluttering chiffon lapels, and flowing blazers were layered over sheer skirts and pants. Indeed, while there was much gauzy transparency to be seen on Doma's runway, it never became vulgar or overly provocative; the sheer tapered pants knotted and cinched high on the waist, racerback tanks, and floating dresses made for a delicate, airy womenswear version of his equally serene, simple menswear.

Photos: style.com