Hervé Léger by Max Azria Spring/Summer 2011 Runway

This has been a surprising week from the Azrias. At their other two shows (Max Azria and BCBG), Max and Lubov presented stripped-down, minimalist dresses that, while extraordinarily pretty and covetable, sometimes read too much Helmut Lang. Personally, there's no such thing as too Helmut, but audiences were undoubtedly clamoring for something a bit more recognizably Azria.

Hervé Léger did continue down the minimalist route in color palette--creams, peaches, and pale pinks--but didn't lose its aesthetic in the neutral haze. The Azrias effortlessly married their Marie Antoinette inspiration with the signature bandage dress, taking the provocative silhouette to more elegant, restrained heights. With a jangly soundtrack from Siouxsie and the Banshees, Hervé's corsets, lace, and lingerie all had more than a hint of the frothy queen. The already naughty-bondage vibe of the bandage dress was made girlier and even sexier with ribbon-woven corsets, perforated, almost sheer leather, lace-printed rubber, and tiny grommet fastenings. Indeed, if Marie Antoinette had a secret S&M side not covered in the history books, we're sure the Azrias were her personal dominatrix couturiers.

Of all of Azrias' labels, Hervé Léger has the strictest constraints; there are only so many places you can go with a bandage dress as limiting as it is skintight. Indeed, when they tried to stray from that aesthetic--corset dresses with flouncy, rococo miniskirts--it almost looked ridiculous. But they've proven that there's still much to be created from that promiscuous little dress...somehow, season upon season, it can still feel new.

Photos: style.com