Graeme Armour Spring/Summer 2011 Runway

When asked backstage what his vision was for Spring 2011, the young, sweetly scruffy Graeme Armour had one word: aprons. "Like a butcher's apron. Everything's kind of front-hanging...and sixties. You know, sixties Balenciaga, et cetera."

The singular idea of a butcher's apron was transformed with Armour's clever front-back trickery. What comes as a short, 60's shift goes in a flurry of floaty, black and white trains...or perhaps a crisscross halter...or even a pair of satin shorts with a front of razored ruffles.

Armour, an alum of Alexander McQueen, may have his sights set on a wider-market retailer ("Not everyone wants to wear leather, tulle, and knit. I need to capture the sales market first. That's what we did with this season, we did a little bit more commercial so we can target a wider audience"), but that doesn't mean he's lost his edge entirely. Crisp white shirts with strong shoulders, paired with a cropped suede jacket or a motorcycle-style leather miniskirt--had instant Armour appeal, as did a pair of perfectly slim black and white flack trousers that opened the show.

Armour has a keen eye for cut, impeccable detail, and architecture. Some of his pieces for Spring 2011 may seem more everyday than his previous outing (it's sad but true: we all, unfortunately, cannot wear metal-linked leggings), but he has always played with a deceptively simple façade. Asymmetrical cuts and an ingenious play on hard and soft...he is definitely any stylist's dream.

Runway photos: style.com