Fashion Week Diary: Day Three

Day three and the themes of the week are coming together. I smell a hippy moment on its way! But thank God the smell isn’t patchouli. Ethnic prints, fizzy hair and even eco fabrics are all in the mix. Lets get going.

Friday afternoon at General Idea, our new fave line from Korea, kicked off with a refreshing approach to nautical with their Les Garçons de la plage

show. That mint coat! And the patchwork tailoring and the Aran knit striped short. One of each please. We spoke to their stylist, New York Times Men’s Fashion Editor, Jason Rider about the theme. He explains, “This is the second season I worked with them and it is all usually done in Korea but we wanted a more American touch.  We wanted Death in Venice but more urban with graphic colors and to give men another way to look at stripes.” We are sold.

Next up more men’s in an old church gym in Chelsea where we check out Nicolas Petrou’s Petrou Man. The marching men were pleasing to the eye in tailored garments with and infusion of African fabrics. Don’t even get us started about the caftan he designed. Want. Now. Petrou told us that, “I took basic classical menswear and brought in a tribal element. The prints are African but are printed in the Netherlands.”  The always chic and sweet Julia Ragolia styled the show and explained that, “I think the important thing was to play with Nicholas’ love of tribal and native cultures. We gave everyone a uniformed look with aluminum Moscot glasses, Richer Poorer socks and collaborative laces with Doc Martin.” What was up with their hair? Theresa Adams from Dop Dop Salon smiled and said, “We wanted them all to look like they fell asleep on the train.” We only wish we were so cute when we woke up from a long trip on the A train.

It was a menswear heavy day for us so it was refreshing to see Costello Tagliapietra.  We met up with the boys backstage and they told us they were really feeling romantic and feminine (the collection not the boys!) this season and that was beautifully reflected in the collection. What was their biggest problem during fashion week? “Not spending time with our big Bulldog, Sammy! He is so irritated with us!”

We took two seconds of key Makeup Artist Lisa Butler’s time. What was she going for? “Burnt coral on eyes, cheeks and lips, a very 1930’s feel!”

What we loved the most besides the clothes was their use of eco friendly air dye technology for their textiles. It is the first way to dye fabrics without water, which is the most harmful part of the fashion industry. Way to go!

We did a drive by at Buckler to see his boys stomp down Washington Street in industrial inspired garments. What was up with the greasy hair? Losi from the Wall Group told us that, “It’s very flat, sleek and shiny, not wet or greasy!” Yes ma’am. And what can she not live without this week? “Magic Moves! I use it as a base and mix everything with it.”

We walked over to Milk Studios to see Billy Reid’s men’s and women’s collection and it’s a bohemian brouhaha: Girls in flowy skirts and men in sandals and open shirts. It’s the right time for this look with the economy in the dumps and the world spinning too fast. These kids are relaxed, carefree and doing it their own way. Ric Pipino gave us some insight into the hair, “ Billy has his whole vision of American style but it’s a personal style so we wanted to keep that essence. We kept the guys really natural but for more texture I used some Wella Sea Spritz. The girls look like they were out all night but they still look amazing because in the end the chick has to look better than the guy!” True.

Nadine Luke from Mac told us that her image of the girls were ones who were “out there smokin’, drinkin’ and livin’ it up! But that look takes a lot of work so we used lots of technology makeup with glow enhancing possibilities and cream colors with a bit of shimmer.”

We ended the show day with Antonio Azzuolo whose menswear we need in every closet in every house. It was a departure from the hippy vibe du jour with a handsome collection including a double breasted white blazer paired with a Robin’s Egg blue turtleneck that we want for our yet to be owned yacht. Vogue’s Men’s Market Editor, Michael Philouze styled the show. How did you meet Antonio? “I asked him if he would like to work together and he said yes. He has very good taste and my same taste which is classic, well-made, sophisticated and refined clothes.” Et voila.

We ended our wear day at the exciting opening of Nichola Formichetti’s store, part of BOFFO’s Building Fashion Program. The store is designed as if you are stepping inside a disco ball, mirrored madness. Nicola has stocked the store with one off pieces he has designed as well as vintage Versace, jumbo lighters, rare Visionaires and Lady Gaga’s costumes on the mannequins.

I am never star struck (I interview these people for a living) but I was fascinated how this man who is at the center of the zeitgeist was just hanging out with friends smoking outside his store. Not a care in the world. I spoke to him inside when he was fiddling around at the DJ booth.

Cator: What’s up? How are you so incredible relaxed?

Nicola: I’m always relaxed! Am actually drunk! Nah, I just never get stressed, I wish I could.

Cator: How involved are you with the store?

Nicola: I’m here to sell everyday. I’m a pretty good shop boy.

Cator: And don’t you have a show in two weeks?

 Nicola: Yeah, Mugler is soon but it will be fine. This isn’t work it’s play. It’s kind of like when you love to party you can multi-party. Well I multi-work!

And on that note he took out a big inkpad, grabbed my arm and inked it with a giant cartoon panda bear and gave me a wink and a smile. Now I see why he does so well. He is so damn cute, cool and spontaneous. Go visit, meet him and why don’t you buy a pair of his custom underwear or his platform shoes with a giant penis heel?

(All photography courtesy of Catharina Duval de Navarre)

Lisa Butler by Tim Howard; Losi by Wall Group; Ric Pipino Autum PR.